Four days after Keith came back from Iraq we went to visit my family in Italy. Sofia was good on the plane, but the next three days were rough. She had a bad jet leg and every time we were tired and trying to take a nap she was waking us up. I felt bad for Keith; from Iraq to Germany to the States and from there back to Italy in just 7 days must have been tough.
We found Italy just like we left it. Good food, good wine, lots of traditions, fine culture, and people in Tuscany very nice and hospitable. My parents flew from Romania to Italy and met us at my sister's house in Radicofani. That was a smart decision ; I couldn’t imagine another flight, even if short. On the way there Sofia did very good, she slept for about five hours and she didn't cry at all. On the way back it was a different story, she took a 20 minute nap after 2 hours of flying, 3 more hours of fussing and then her final 50 minutes nap. From there 5 more hours of flying to get to Philadelphia, about 6 hours of waiting and 3 more to Nashville. Good thing they had USO in Philly and it was actually very nice to stretch my back and have Sofia sleep in a crib. I kept repeating myself that I will never do this again ( by myself) , but now that we're home I would do it again and again. It's funny how you learn to appreciate places and people when are so far away from you. It was such a great time with my family; it was nice to see everybody after three years. So, dear friends who live closer to your family consider yourself LUCKY! But speaking of lucky, I am lucky to have my sisters live in such beautiful places even if that far. I have been to Tuscany before, but every time I see it I like it more and more. Again, we had so much fun!
Keith only stayed for 10 days as well as my dad and the flight schedules worked out perfect. Both of my sisters live about 2 hours from Rome so my brother in law drove them both to the airport.
Keith’s visit was short, but my sisters kept us busy. We arrived on Monday and the day after we all gathered together for Sofia's first haircut ceremony. The next three days we toured villages and towns within 30-50km from my sister's house and on Saturday Keith and I went to Florence and stayed over night.
After Keith left, Sofia my mom and I stayed a week more with my sister Lumi and then came back to Radicofani to stay with Dani, Matteo and David.
Sofia with my nephew David
Sofia with Matteo and David
Some views from the back of their house
And here's my Keith
Our 'cappucino e brioche' little bar ( a 'bar' over there is not what is in U.S; you can actually have breakfast at a bar in Italy)
Some local pottery store
Keith with Sofia and my older sister Daniela. The first day we were there we just hanged out at the house and walked through Radicofani
Me with Matteo and Dani
Their local 'macelleria- salumeria'. Look at that prosciutto crudo- I already miss it!
Me , my other sister Luminita, Daniela and my mom
Sofia's first haircut ceremony
In Romania is a really big deal to cut your baby's hair for the first time. They put up a big party with lots of people , they eat, drink and dance all day and all night. Here's a long short story of how it goes: the parents find a Godmother and invite her and many other people to their house or wherever they want to have the party. She is the one who will cut the baby's hair, so she will be the one who will buy new clothes as well and she'll also buy ( or bake) a 'turta', a Romanian sweet bread that she will break on top of the baby's head. After she cuts the hair, the family will put in front of the baby a large tray with different objects that each has a meaning: a book, a notebook ( she will be a writter, reader), ceasures ( she will be a doctor or maybe a hairdresser), money ( she will have it or like to spend it a lot), gold ( wealthness), and also a toy. Whatever the baby will choose, traditions say from folklore that in the future that object will be part of her life.( of course everybody interprets the objects as they wish). My mom told me I chose a pen and a notebook, but with the computers nowadays it doesn't make any sense to me (haha)
Lumi and Sofia with 'ardeleanca'- a doll from Ardeal ( a region in Romania)
Lumi , my dad, my mom, and Dani trying to put Sofie's hair up
Ready?
Oh nooo! My baby's hair!
And now, breaking the bread ( the flour, salt and water here means health in her life)
She didn't even say a word
Sofie finding the gift from my brother Victor ,tataie and mamaie. He couldn't come this time but I hope to see him soon enought.
She chose a book and money
What else is on that tray?
After the haircut everybody will eat the bread as a wish of happiness to the baby and parents.
We cheated with the bread, it wasn't Romanian, but an Italian Ciambellone. Still very good! And both of my sisters were her Godmothers that gave her plenty of gifts. Va pup din nou:)
And now passing Sofia to everybody for a kiss.
In this picture there is Marian too, Lumi's husband
The hair will be put in a handkerchief and be kept at the parents house.
Radicofani's castle
Another view from Dani's roof
The little house in this picture is what they call a 'podere', a big house with its own vineyards, olive trees, sheeps and what not. They usually have other people working their lands and taking care of their sheeps. Many of them are 'agriturismo' - something that is supposed to be a real taste of Tuscany
Chianciano
On Wednesday Dani drove us to Chianciano, about 20 km from Radicofani. It is also called " La citta della salute"- "the city of health" known for its spa resort with natural mineral waters with healing elements.
http://www.chiancianoterme.com/en/waters_and_spings.html
On the way to Montepulciano we stopped at a local store for some wine tasting
Walking towards Chianciano's center
Keith enjoying a coffee
...and this was the view from his table
Back to the house relaxing
Matteo with Sofia watching Baby Einstein- Yes, I took some CDs with me! She loves them , it's probably time for BE for Toddlers
Matteo has a passion for building little boats from scratch. It takes a lot of patience to built them that nice. Bravissimo, Matteo!
My sister instead loves to paint oils on canvas. That's me ( with blond hair back then) and her.
My mom with Sofia. She spoiled her so much! When walking she always wanted 'mamaia's hand to walk with her.
Montepulciano- my favorite
On Thursday we went to Montepulciano , another beautiful town . It is much bigger than Radicofani and Chianciano with about 14ooo residents situated at about 600 meters above the sea level.
Montalcino
Here we are: at the place where they make our favorite wine Brunello di Montalcino. Three years ago when we last visited my sister we didn’t have enough time to visit it, but this time it was definitely on our list.
Montalcino has only 5000 habitants and it’s situated at about 600m above the ocean level. The reason I always mention the altitude is because Tuscany is a region on higher or lower hills. It’s absolutely gorgeous; you can’t really describe its beauty or capture it in a picture. You all have to go visit it!
Here we toured the city and tried many wines in different 'cantinas' (wine cellars). Here’s a short story of the Brunello wine: before the second half of the 1800s, the most known wine was the Moscadello di Montalcino wine. Clemente Santi , a local resident was the first one to start studying the vineyards with their grape clusters and because of their brownish color he gave the name "Brunello". Later in 1860 his nephew Fiorucci Biondi Santi started immediately to produce a wine that had a big success for his excelent quality. However, Brunello wine was known as an excellent wine only in Tuscany , and only after 1950 started to be famous worldwide. There is a lot more history behind each vineyard and about Biondi Santi (after his name one of the most expensive and excellent one in the world). Maybe I will make a blog just about wine:)
A nice 'podere' in the back
Another nice 'podere'
Not sure which one to try first..
Pizza time!
Montalcino's castle
At another wine tasting
I mean just tasting, NOT buying. That's right, some bottles were 2500 Euros ( per bottle). Crazy...
Abbazia Monte Oliveto Maggiore
And here we are on another trip to Monte Oliveto, a beautiful old monastery that had its own winery as well. And of course Keith didn’t miss it. Here the monks made honey, natural medicines and oils, olive oil, honey and eucalyptus skin care products
http://www.monte-oliveto.com
Santa Caterina statue
All the monastery walls were painted by the monks ( not sure here, but different scenes from old Catholic's saints history)
In their wine cellar
The sommelier here is washing a white wine glass with red wine. 'Why wasting?' , he said.
Wine for daddy and gelato for Sofie.
Her favorite was 'tartuffo al cioccolato' and 'amarena'. I know, not so good for babies. Bad mamma!
Back at the house, my dad and Miccio- my sister's cat reminded me of Apollo. Everybody but my dad was kicking her out of their way. Poor kitty!
Radicofani's castle and tower
Every town/village has its own tower. Hundreds of years ago, before they built their houses the people found the best and higher spot for the tower, used to defend themselves during WWI and WWII. Here's more about Rocca di Radicofani (from year 1000):
http://www.castellitoscani.com/radicofani.htm
From Dani's house is about 20 min walking to the castle and about 10 more up on stairs on top of the tower.
The weather was nice but a little chilly. Sofie is wearing a beautiful sweater than Dani made for her.
Up the stairs in the castle.
Radicofani view from the tower (900 m above sea level)
Inside the tower (on the walls stories from wars and how they used to torture their enemies)
My mom, dad, and my sister waiving at us. We'll take Sofia with us the next time when she'll actually can learn something:)
This is how they used to kill the bad guys
Dinner at my sister's and Matteo's restaurant
E stato veramente molto buono. Grazie di nuovo Matteo e Dani!
Dani with Marilena e Antoanella
Firenze
A few months after I met Keith, I took him on a trip to Florence. After Venice, we consider this beautiful city our city because we have so many nice memories. It looked just the same and we tried to visit places that we missed the other two times (the second visit was with Keith’s mom). Our hotel was great, we toured all day long, went shopping and not to mention about the food and wine. Five years ago, this is were Keith tried Brunello for the first time.
Il Duomo di Firenze-The Dome
Cappuera dancers performing on streets
Our hotel
Ponte Vecchio- The Old Bridge (with tens of boutiques and stores that sell gold jewellery)
View from Piazza Michelangelo
A copy of Davide in Piazza Michelangelo- the original is in Galleria dell'Accademia ( we wanted to go see him again, but they were sold out)
Dante Alighieri's (one of the greatest Italian poets of all the times) statue in front of the Dome
Inside chiesa
In 'Chiesa di Santa Croce' there is the famous " Scuola del cuoio" - School of leather
http://www.scuoladelcuoio.com/scuola-del-cuoio-about-us.html
Outside School of Leather -the Statue of the Pope
Me being mad about Keith's 14 Euros icecream. Yes, it is the same story with tourists getting ripped off. Leave the man for a minute and look what happens! I guess Keith has to work on his Italian accent more so they can't tell he is American!
At the same restaurant that we had dinner 5 years ago.
Why not getting dressed up and go out like in the old days?
The TV was a good tripod for our silly pictures
Artists painting on the streets. And tell me this is not the country of art!
Cupola inside Chiesa di Santa Croce
About 530 steps all the way up
You could see through those gates a few floors down, but Keith didn't seem to care
Last stop before heading back to Radicofani: pasticeria. They wouldn't even want to let me take a picture. How would I steal a recipe just from the picture? I guess some people can just looking at it! I asked a local pastry store what kind of flour they put in their 'cantuccini' - Keith's favorite and they did not want to tell me.
Scrofiano
Lumi and Marian live in Scrofiano di Sinalunga, a small village built in 1200. It's about 1 hour driving from Dani's house and about 40 minutes to Siena. Sinalunga is about 7 km far and it's much bigger.
Dinner time at their house
Scrofiano's church. There was supposed to be a castle too, but in the 1500s the castle was besieged by the Imperial Florentine troops which destroyed its walls.
The village is surrounded by olive trees, vineyards and peoples' gardens. So pretty!
Keith close to a big jasmine plant- his favorite
Back at the house
Dinner time again
My mom at Lumi and Marian's garden
My mom and Lumi cooked an awesome dinner: fasant in white wine with olives and rosemary and pasta in rabbit sauce.
At the park
Huge rosemary plant
My mom trying to show Sofia Lumi and Marian's three parrots
At the mall in Sinalunga
In the back Chianciano
Every mall had its own park with areas for children. I wish we had one in Clarksville:(
Simple lunch
Grilling at the garden; my mom cooked some Romanian food too. I couldn't go to Europe without having a taste of my own country. My favorite: mici ( sausages) and sarmale in foi de vita (stuffed grape leaves). Yum!
Sofia wearing 'ie" - a Romanian traditional costume that Lumi bought for her when she visited Romania. Next year will fit her better:)
Placinta cu branza si cu mere- my mom's cheese pies and apple pies
Entrance on Lumi's narrow street.
View from their garden and far back view of Chianciano
At another park. Sofia playing with Lumi's neighbor's dog
The village was so small and safe than mothers would leave their children at the park and went grocery shopping. Leonardo in the back was trying to get Sofia 's attention all the time. Too early for boyfriends, baby!
Signora Anna, Lumi's neighbor and friend made a winter coat for Sofia and invited us over her house. The house was built in 1200 and every corner had something special. She let me take some pictures.
Lumi and Sofia on the terrace
Signora Anna with Sofia on her terracce
Her quilting machine. She used to sell her stuff at boutiques in Florence and Siena.
This bathroom reminds me of our friends Brian and Denae's house in Aviano.
Guest bedroom
Kitchen- the arch at the top left and many others were discovered ( when they were doing some renovations) by her and her husband only 20 years ago. Somebody must not have liked it or who knows what happened hundreds of years ago with this house. What's for sure, the houses survived many earthquakes, storms, wars and what not.
Entrance of the house
Grazie tante, Signora Anna per l'ospitalita e anche per la maglietta!
Bagni di San Petriolo
Bagni di San Petriolo is a good 1 hour and a half drinving from Scrofiano. Marian drove us there but we only stayed for a couple of hours since Sofia could't take the sulfur smell anymore.
http://www.casasantapia.com/engels/monticiano.htm
My mom and Lumi in the big 'bathtube' ( the temp is always at 45 Celsius and the closer you get to the source the hottest.
My mom at the bottom left in a small
'bathtube'
It was a little chilly outside, so it was hard to get in fast.
View from the bridge
Siena
On the way back from the terms we stopped in Siena for a walk
Feeding the geese
Statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi
A wine cellar in Castigliano d"Orcia- another town close to Sinalunga
Castiglione d'Orcia
Cooking lessons
After a week Sofia and I went back to Dani and Matteo's house. I went to their restaurant on the day they made pasta and they let me take some pictures
My sister making tagliatelle
Out of the three cooks, my sister is the one who is in charge of pasta
Pici- typical tuscan pasta made of wheat flour, water and semolina
Tagliatelle
Signora Gina making gnocchi
Cutting the tagliatelle
Signora Marilena in charge of pizzas
Making pici
Bravissima cuoca!
And voila! Gnocchi and tagliatelle ready to be cooked!
They though me more recipes and Italian kicken secrets, but they said they'll come after me and kill me if I ever reveal them. Just kidding:))
Signora Gina giving Sofia a cookie
At the park in Radicofani playing with their dog Agor
Dani's friend Antoanella came with her daughter Raffaella to visit Sofia.
Grazie tante per i regali!
Muah! Un bacio alla Raffaella!
In the backyard
My mom's yummy 'sarmale in foi de vita' (stuffed grape leafs)
Panzanella- a typical tuscan salad that poor people used to eat it during WWII. Here's more about Panzanella Toscana.
http://www.kingarthurflour.com/recipes/panzanella-and-tuscan-bread-recipe
Walking with my mom in Radicofani's surroundings
Radicofani's church
Piccolo Museo degli Antichi Mestieri- Small Museum of Old Jobs/Crafts
Back then people used to work with these kind of tools
David and Sofia sharing some pizza
Backyard playing with mamaia. She wouldn't walk without her..Poor my mom! She had a good exercise for 3 weeks
My mom teaching her how to water the plants
Piancastagnaio
Piancastagnaio is about half an hour drive from Radicofani and is located on Monte Amiata ( 1600m) slopes
With its castle
Bagni di San Fillippo
Bagni di san Fillippo is another place that I really liked. It is about 8 minutes driving from Dani's house. My mom stayed at home with Sofia this time.
You can't tell but there is water coming down all those rocks, same temp. as the other terms. All these terms have their own complex with swimming pools, but we prefered to stay in nature. Too bad Keith wasn't here.
http://www.termesanfilippo.com/index.php/english/index
Grazie di nuovo Matteo, Dani, Lumi e Marian per queste bellissime vacanze! Ci siamo sentiti da Dio!
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